Three myths and three truths about skiing in Europe.
Several years ago I wrote a post titled “Why Ski the Alps?” It turned out a lot of people were interested in why they should ski the Alps and the post became a hit.
At that time, we’d not skied in Europe. In 2018, we took our sons to Germany and Austria, specifically to Garmisch and St. Anton.
Almost immediately, we were hooked. It wasn’t that the skiing was so different from skiing in North America, but that the scope of the skiing was different. The Alps are rugged and vast, the mountains steep and dramatic, and the lift infrastructure is incredible.
While St. Anton is part of a massive complex of interconnected ski resorts, Garmisch Classic and Zugspitze (two sister resorts near the town of Garmisch-Partenkirchen) feel quite familiar to North Americans. Still, the skiing experience in both Austria and Germany was unique and eye-opening.
Since then, we’ve fielded a lot of questions, not just as to why a North American family would or should travel to Europe to ski, but also about how we planned and realized our European ski trip.
Myths and Truths About Skiing the Alps
Before skiing in Europe, we were told some information that made skiing the Alps seem difficult, expensive, and even a bit burdensome. After having skied in Germany and Austria, we’re pretty sure much of what we heard simply isn’t right.
So let’s dispel of few of the myths.
Myth: Skiing the Alps will break the bank.
Truth: Skiing the Alps can be significantly less expensive than skiing in North America.
You know how you have to plan in advance and buy a season pass, a bundle of tickets or online single-day tickets to save money at most ski areas in the United States?
Not so at Garmisch and St. Anton, where the walk up rate at two world-famous mountains was about $55 per day. All we had to do was show up.
This spring we’re going to Italy and we are buying advance tickets. Here’s the math: $52 per person, per day. For a family of four, that is $1 less than one single day, walk-up rate adult ticket at Vail.
I’ve heard that Switzerland and France are more expensive, but I don’t have any first-hand experience.
As for lodging, I booked the German portion online, picking a highly-rated small bed and breakfast in Garmisch. It took five minutes.
For Austria, my husband found a hotel with half-board, meaning breakfast, an abundant afternoon snack, and dinner. He booked directly with the property after numerous emails and phone calls, because he wanted to discuss details like ski rentals, transportation and spa services. He doesn’t speak German, but everyone at the hotel speaks perfect English.
While I’m sure the sky is the limit in terms of opulent and luxurious lodging, what we had was mid-range, quite affordable, totally clean, and comfortable.
In the U.S. the most similar experience in terms of ski lodging with meals is at Alta. Just for fun, we priced the same week that we’ll be in Italy. Italy costs 40% less.
Myth: To ski in Europe, you need to book through a tour company.
Truth: Planning a ski trip to the Alps is easy. It’s much like planning a ski holiday in the U.S.
We like traveling independently, so we planned everything on our own.
Here’s are our steps for planning a ski trip to the Alps.
- Decide where you want to go. Ask friends, look online and do research. Choose a resort or region.
- Figure out how you’re going to get there. Choose a gateway airport from the US (say Lyon, Munich or Geneva — I’m sure there are others) and then figure out how to get close to the resort either by train (works really well in Germany, not so well in Italy), another flight, or a rental car.
- Search online for lodging and follow up with emails and calls, if necessary. Of note, we have found most hotels prefer you send them an email outlining your dates and desires. They’ll send back a proposal for your consideration.
Myth: You must have a guide to ski the Alps.
Truth: If you can read a trail map, mountain signage, and pay attention to the time, you do not.
American friends told us we had to have a guide to avoid getting lost. We hired a guide for one day at St. Anton. He was nice and it was a waste of money.
If you plan ahead and study the trail map prior to arrival, you don’t need a guide unless you’re going to go off-piste in a ski mountaineering sort of way. In that case, you’ll need a guide and proper safety equipment.
You should, of course, always pay attention to avalanche warnings and learn the local phrases for such warnings. Never duck ropes and don’t ski closed terrain, just as in North America.
If you do hire a guide, hire a local guide. Prior to going to Austria, we talked to numerous guide outfitters, based in the U.S. and in Austria. You’ll pay a massive premium if you book with a U.S. company.
Useful Things to Know When Skiing the Alps
- It’s hard to find drinking fountains. Fill a water bottle at the hotel and take it in your pocket.
- Long lunches are not required. We ate big breakfasts and carried lunch for sunny day picnics. On colder days, we skied until mid-afternoon and stopped for dessert. We also had one traditional, long midday meal. Not gonna lie: It was lovely.
- We took our boots and helmets and rented skis. Rent at the resort and ask for overnight storage.
- Avoid Christmas and Easter. While the vast infrastructure will disperse people rapidly, it’s always more fun to the have mountain to yourself.
- What lift line? It’s a lift scrum. We thought the Austrians were shockingly disordered. We’ve been told the French are worse.
Admittedly, our experience skiing the Alps is limited. We welcome any and all suggestions and tips that you may have!
And please keep those questions coming.
Cheers!
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Fiona Easdale says
I heard of BraveSkiMom through a mutual friend of Kristen’s and mine and avidly read all the articles. Please do come to Europe – we aren’t as orderly in lift lines but we are friendly and we have massive ski areas, many offering challenging and not so challenging skiing, and so long as you stay high (average skiing above 1500m / 6,000 feet) you will be fine. I have to admit that I am biased, running a company in Val d’Isère, France where the resort itself is 1800m and we ski from late November to early May. We offer chalet holidays where you stay in chalets for 4-43 and have breakfast, British afternoon tea and dinner with wine and coffee on 5 or 6 nights of the week. But come and sample a chalet holiday soon. After Brexit, the whole model is in danger of collapsing as French staff just don’t want to do the work British girls and guys, just out of uni, are happy to do in return for skiing for five months and good pay! Fiona – YSE
braveskimom says
Hi Fiona! Thanks for your input. Thanks for the tip on altitude. Val D’Isere is one my list of “must skis”. I love, love, love the Chalet model of lodging, especially with the food included. It makes a holiday stress-free when you don’t have to decide where to have your next meal. Gotta say, I didn’t know about the Brexit issue making it hard for British students to work in France.
Thanks for sharing!
Fiona Easdale says
Let me know when you are ready to book a trip to Val d’Isère. I’m sure we can help!!
braveskimom says
Thank you!
David Knott says
Great, comprehensive, helpful article! My daughters are moving into their middle teens (it seems like just last season I was introducing them to skiing!) This article opens up a whole new world of possibilities for skiing with them, especially these days, when a family ski trip for just a long weekend can almost break the bank! And I know that the idea of experiencing European culture at the same time will be enticing to them (and maybe even to mom!)
braveskimom says
Can’t wait to hear where you’ll go! Enjoy the adventure!
Peter says
This post is spot on! My wife, school-age daughter, and I have spent our past three spring breaks traveling from Minnesota to the Swiss, Italian, and Austrian Alps. Our friends tease us about these fancy-schmancy trips, but the God’s-honest truth is that we spend less in Europe all-in than we would going to Breck, Vail, Park City, or any other large US resort. Yes, the 10-13 hour flights are long, but you can find deals — we’ve flown economy plus on United and IcelandAir for around $500/ticket. We paid $200/nt. for efficiency apartments in Zermatt that are flawless, walking distance to the lift, and much nicer than you’d find in Summit County at that price point. Multi-day lift tickets were $70/day at Zermatt for access to all areas (including over the backside into Cervinia, Italy). Kitzbuhel was a little bit less per day. Ski, boot , and pole rental was $200/wk. per person and the gear was so good i bought the same model of Atomics when i returned home. Restaurant and grocery prices are comparable. We’ve rented cars for $350/wk, but the trains are great and can save you money and hassle.
One of the biggest game changers this year is Zermatt joining the Ikon Pass. If you ski on the pass in the US, even more reason to make your was over to Switzerland. Incredible skiing and views, not to mention the hospitality at the dozens of family owned chalets all over the mountains.
In Kitzbuhel, we were riding brand new 8-person high speed lifts with heated cushioned seats designed by Pinafania (yeah, the folks that design Ferarris) So, maybe there’s some truth to these Alps trips being fancy, but youre just not paying more for it.
braveskimom says
Fantastic! Thank you so much for sharing your experiences! And the Ikon Pass reminder.,
And I must agree about the rental gear. Top quality!
Hope you are having many fun adventures this winter too!
umiaks says
When our kids were young, we took them to Klosters in Switzerland and Lech in Austria. I recommend both. The Alps are really good places for small children. Long, gentle runs that take you from place to place, and good ski schools with ski weeks for the little guys. Also, great hot chocolate and pommes frites.